10 The Olive Branch
The Olive Branch was awarded a Michelin star in 2002 but its owners continue to innovate says David Hancock
The Olive Branch Clipsham, Rutland. Tel:01780 410355, www.theolivebranchpub.com
The Olive Branch was rescued from extinction in 1999 by three young and enterprising friends-turned business partners - Ben Jones, Marcus Welford and Sean Hope. They set up the Rutland Inn Company and recruited financial backing from friends and Clipsham villagers to help raise the £240,000 needed to buy and reviltalise the village local. It was a sound investment as the pub gained a coveted Michelin star in 2002 and has more than doubled its property value under their stewardship.
More importantly, sleepy Clipsham had its pub back and what a cracking pub it is, one that retains all of its pub qualities - space for drinkers, a casual relaxed atmosphere, local micro-brewery beers - and one that draws foodies from far and wide for serious food and wine. The team had great vision and they continue to pioneer some innovative ideas at the Olive Branch, notably a wholesale list of wines, a pub shop selling home-made products (soon to be online), a "takeaway dinner party"service, which delivers meals direct to customers' doors, a "chef for hire" service, and hampers of food for outdoor events.
The setting is suitably shabby-chic and informal, a rambling interior with a mixture of sisal-style or tiled floors, plain wooden tables, chairs and pews sourced from local schools and nursing homes, cracking log fires, and soft lamplight. The real attractions are the blackboards listing wonderful bin-end wines and the diverse modern British menus, listing soups, sandwiches and an excellent value two or three-course lunch menu.
Both these and the daily printed carte overflow with local ingredients. Sean Hope and his talented kitchen team work closely with regional suppliers and menus proudly indentify the produce source, be it pot-roasted Belvoir Estate partridge with roasted root vegetables and game chips, or Grasmere Farm sausages with mustard mash and braised red cabbage.
The feel of the place may be down-to-earth but the cooking is accomplished and notable for its flair and simplicity. Dishes range from pork and Stilton pie with home-made piccalilli, and fish and chips, to braised turbot with crab mousse and mussel velouté, and confit duck leg with bean cassoulet and red cabbage.
The Rutland Inn Company opened its second pub, the Red Lion, Stathern, Leicestershire, in 2002.
Behind the scenes at...The Olive Branch
Owners/licensees: The Rutland Inn Company, partners Ben Jones, Marcus Welford & Sean Hope (freehold)
Head chef: Sean Hope
Turnover: £950,000
Wet:dry split: 70:30
Covers a week: 600 to 700
Covers for diners: 45, plus 30 outside
Best-selling dishes: In the winter, game; in the summer fish dishes and fish and chips.
Top tip/why successful: "We are always experimenting and trying new things, such as cookery demonstrations, wine-tasting events and opening the pub shop. Even though we are successful we try to improve the pub in every department - we never rest on our laurels."
Best business ideas/innovation: "Installing the clay-oven barbecue in the garden as it takes the pressure off the already-busy kitchen. A newsletter is e-mailed out to our huge database of diners and events are booked up within days."
New for 2006: A party room to seat between 13 and 28. Six bedrooms, open for business in May or June.
Best-selling dishes: oysters; seafood platters; sausage and mash; Cöte de boeuf.
On the menu...
Roast scallops, black pudding mash, red wine sauce, £8.50 Game casserole, tarragon dumpling, £12.95 Baked white chocolate cheesecake, £5.75
Recipe
Bread & Butter pudding
Ingredients (serves 4)
50g/1¾oz dried raisins
4 free range eggs
40g/1½oz castor sugar
100ml/ 3½fl oz whipping cream
350ml/12fl oz milk
4 slices panfruttone bread
Method
Sprinkle the raisins in the bottom of a baking dish. Mix the eggs and sugar in a mixing bowl, add cream and milk. Lay the panfruttone into the baking dish and pour the egg and cream mix over the top. Allow it to soak through for a few minutes. Preheat the oven to 100°C/212°F. Bake for about 25mins or until set. Place under grill to finish colouring and serve hot or cold with custard.
